I'm in the 5A-6B plant hardiness zone of Canada. I have a garden on a slight incline about twelve feet wide and five feet deep. It is currently quite rocky, it appears gravel was added underneath canvass for drainage (I assume) and then dirt dumped over it. Should I dig all of this out and start over? There are some perennials, (rose bushes - very ugly) that I'd like to pull out, and hostas I planted last year. What type of shrubs, perennials and flowers would do well in this area? I am looking for easy care type stuff, but I like pretty flowers. I also prefer wild flowers or those that look wild. I do not like the rose bushes, they are very difficult to make look pretty and are quite thorny making access to the rest of the garden difficult as they are so overgrown. Any tips for the small hill garden would be appreciated as well.
What should I plant this spring in my outdoor garden?
You could make the area into a rock garden. Suggestions for plants: cranesbill, stonecress, bellflower, gentian, lantana, salvia, sedum, diasca, scilla, onamental onion, crocus, allium, fleabane, phlox, violas, and herbs. Incorporate a few large rocks or use smaller ones as an edging. Removing the roses sounds like a good idea if you don't like them. Plant something that will make you smile every time you see it. Good luck.
Reply:wow this is a big question.ill answer it with a few questions. where do you live ,what do you like to eat ,what is your soil ph.,do you have a compost pile,ben,will you use mulch ,what type of watering system will you use.do use the web or talk to an old timer to get good ideas and suggestions. good luck and happy eating !!
Reply:Lantana is what you need. Get all colors. It loves dry hot weather and would do well among your rocks.
A question for men
Showing posts with label plants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label plants. Show all posts
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
How do I stop cats (& maybe foxes) pooing in my garden? It's just patchy grass with a burn area in the middle
Just moved to a previously vacant property. The garden is just grass surrounded by fencing, working on getting some plants/flowers in ....eventually.
How do I stop cats (%26amp; maybe foxes) pooing in my garden? It's just patchy grass with a burn area in the middle
There are professional cat repellants available. The only problem is the frequent application. You can put out moth balls and the smell will repel most animals. Hopefully, if they get the picture, they will go elsewhere.
Reply:Put a bigger fence
How do I stop cats (%26amp; maybe foxes) pooing in my garden? It's just patchy grass with a burn area in the middle
There are professional cat repellants available. The only problem is the frequent application. You can put out moth balls and the smell will repel most animals. Hopefully, if they get the picture, they will go elsewhere.
Reply:Put a bigger fence
If i planted a seed from a cherry in my garden would it grow?
asked my mum this yesterday. she said the tree would proberly grow but woulnt have anythig on it. i live in scotland you see. is it a bush or a tree aswell. i really jsut wana know would one grow in my garden?
If i planted a seed from a cherry in my garden would it grow?
I live in Scotland too and have done this in the past, but have never allowed the tree to get beyond 2 or 3 feet. Cherry stones need to spend a winter in the ground before they will germinate (the frost breaks up the hard stone) but they will grow the following spring. The tree may eventually flower but stone grown trees are never as healthy as specially raised ones and any fruit you get may be poor quality. Also, sweet cherry trees get VERY big before they fruit and birds tend to eat most of the fruit unless you protect it.
If you really want to grow cherries in your garden, get a sour cherry tree (much smaller, and birds don't eat the fruit) from a nursery. The fruit is tasty and can be made into jams etc. but is not usually eaten raw.
Reply:Cherries grow on trees, we used to have two of them in my backyard when i was growing up, they were bith over 20 feet tall.
As for growing, its hard to say. It shoul grow, but there is a reason that trees produce soo many seeds - the odds of any one seed surviving for more thana year or two is not good. Only some will germinate and then some of those will die to to weak root systems, disease etc.
So, theoretically they should grow, but just planting one doesnt give you the best odds of success.
If you want to try, this is what you do:
Cherries are deciduous trees and so their seeds require what is known as cold stratification - they need a simulated winter in order to germinate. If you do not do this, the seed will just sit in the ground until after a real winter stratifies it.
To stratify:
Take the cherry seeds - you should use atleast 10 if you can to increase the odds of success - and place them in a cup of hot water and let them soak for 24 hours. This is called scarrification and allows water to absorb through the hard seed covering and to be absorbed by the inner seed. It helps to replace the water every few hours with fresh hot water.
At first, the seeds will float - once they have been scarified and absorbed water, they will sink to the bottom. While some ofthe one that float may still germinate, some of the floaters will be dead. The best chance of growth is from those that sink.
After 24 hours place the seeds in a bag of peat moss that is moist (moist but not waterlogged) and sprinkle wiht cinnamon. Cinnamon is a natural anti fungal. Seal the bag and place in the refrigerator for 90-120 days.
After this period (you can checkcarefully after about 75 days) you should see that the seeds germinated and small sprouts will be visible.
Remove from the fridge and place each seed in a small pot of soil and water. After a week or so, the new shoot wil emerge fro the soil.
Note: Best time to do this is during the winter, otherwise you sprout them during the wrong time of year and the ymay not survive the first winter without emough growth time.
Also, it will eventually grow fruit, but can sometimes take 10-15 years if not longer for the tree to become mature enough to fruit.
Heres a link on growing trees from seeds:
http://www.bonsaisite.com/germinate.html
Reply:It would be a tree. It would take a while for it to have fruit.
Reply:it should eventually
If i planted a seed from a cherry in my garden would it grow?
I live in Scotland too and have done this in the past, but have never allowed the tree to get beyond 2 or 3 feet. Cherry stones need to spend a winter in the ground before they will germinate (the frost breaks up the hard stone) but they will grow the following spring. The tree may eventually flower but stone grown trees are never as healthy as specially raised ones and any fruit you get may be poor quality. Also, sweet cherry trees get VERY big before they fruit and birds tend to eat most of the fruit unless you protect it.
If you really want to grow cherries in your garden, get a sour cherry tree (much smaller, and birds don't eat the fruit) from a nursery. The fruit is tasty and can be made into jams etc. but is not usually eaten raw.
Reply:Cherries grow on trees, we used to have two of them in my backyard when i was growing up, they were bith over 20 feet tall.
As for growing, its hard to say. It shoul grow, but there is a reason that trees produce soo many seeds - the odds of any one seed surviving for more thana year or two is not good. Only some will germinate and then some of those will die to to weak root systems, disease etc.
So, theoretically they should grow, but just planting one doesnt give you the best odds of success.
If you want to try, this is what you do:
Cherries are deciduous trees and so their seeds require what is known as cold stratification - they need a simulated winter in order to germinate. If you do not do this, the seed will just sit in the ground until after a real winter stratifies it.
To stratify:
Take the cherry seeds - you should use atleast 10 if you can to increase the odds of success - and place them in a cup of hot water and let them soak for 24 hours. This is called scarrification and allows water to absorb through the hard seed covering and to be absorbed by the inner seed. It helps to replace the water every few hours with fresh hot water.
At first, the seeds will float - once they have been scarified and absorbed water, they will sink to the bottom. While some ofthe one that float may still germinate, some of the floaters will be dead. The best chance of growth is from those that sink.
After 24 hours place the seeds in a bag of peat moss that is moist (moist but not waterlogged) and sprinkle wiht cinnamon. Cinnamon is a natural anti fungal. Seal the bag and place in the refrigerator for 90-120 days.
After this period (you can checkcarefully after about 75 days) you should see that the seeds germinated and small sprouts will be visible.
Remove from the fridge and place each seed in a small pot of soil and water. After a week or so, the new shoot wil emerge fro the soil.
Note: Best time to do this is during the winter, otherwise you sprout them during the wrong time of year and the ymay not survive the first winter without emough growth time.
Also, it will eventually grow fruit, but can sometimes take 10-15 years if not longer for the tree to become mature enough to fruit.
Heres a link on growing trees from seeds:
http://www.bonsaisite.com/germinate.html
Reply:It would be a tree. It would take a while for it to have fruit.
Reply:it should eventually
What are the treatments for cutworms (not grubs) in my garden?
I didn't take the usual precautions when planting seedlings in my garden, as cutworms have never been anything more than a nuisance, but this season I have lost several developing vegetable plants with stems up to a quarter of an inch in diameter. I've found the cutworm in only one instance.
What can I use sparingly around the base of susceptible plants to take them out?
What are the treatments for cutworms (not grubs) in my garden?
Ortho? Bug-B-Gon? MAX? Lawn %26amp; Garden Insect Killer Concentrate Ready-to-Spray
* Kills on contact
* Kills over 150 types of insects
* Provides residual control for up to 6 weeks
* Built-in applicator - no mixing, no measuring, and no mess
* Guaranteed!
usage
How to Use
Connect: Shake well before using. Connect sprayer to hose. Turn on water.
Spray: To begin spraying, point nozzle in the direction you want to spray. Bend small yellow plastic tab back and turn knob clockwise to ON position. Spray evenly over measured area.
Finish: To stop spraying, turn knob counter-clockwise to OFF position. Turn off water. Relieve water pressure by bending yellow plastic tab back and turning knob to ON position until water slows to a drip. Turn knob back to OFF position. Disconnect sprayer from hose.
When to Apply
Apply when insects first appear and repeat as necessary, but not more frequently than every 7-14 days.
Where to Use
* Roses and other ornamentals
* Vegetables and fruit trees listed on label
* Trees and shrubs
* Lawns
* Around house foundations, porches, patios and stored lumber.
Where Not to Use
For outdoor use only. Do not apply directly to water. Drifts and runoff from treated areas may be hazardous to aquatic organisms in treated areas. Do not contaminate water when disposing of equipment washwaters. Do not apply to humans or animals.
What It Controls
On Ornamental Plants (including: roses, flowers %26amp; shrubs):
Aphids, armyworms, bagworms, crickets, cutworms, Eastern spruce gall adelgade, elm leafbeetles, European pine sawfly, fall webworm, flea beetle, grasshoppers, greenbug aphids, gypsy moth, hornets, Japanese beetle (adults), lacebug, leafhopper, loopers, lygus bug, mealybugs, mimosa webworms, mosquitoes, northern pine weevil, oak webworm, orchard weevil, periodical cicada, pine chaffer, pine shoot weevil, plantbug, redheaded pine sawfly, saltmarsh caterpillar, sap beetle, sawfly, spittlebug, spruce mites, stink bug, tarnished plant bug, tent caterpillar, thrips, two spotted spider mite, wasp, whitefly, and Zimmerman pine moth.
On Lawns:
Ants (including carpenter, lawn, foraging fire ant, and Argentine), armyworms, black turfgrass ataenius, chinch bugs, crickets, cutworms, deer ticks, fleas, greenbugs (aphids), Japanese beetles (adults), mole crickets, mosquitoes, sod webworms, weevils (including billbugs and annual bluegrass)
On Vegetables %26amp; Melons:
Aphids, alfalfa caterpillar, alfalfa looper, American plum borer, apple aphid, apple maggot, armyworms, artichoke plume moth, beet armyworm, black cherry aphid, black vine weevil, blueberry spanworm, buckhorn aphid, cabbage loopers, carrot weevil, celery looper, cherry fruit fly, chinch bug, clover mites, codling moth, Colorado potato beetle, corn earworm, corn rootworm (adults), corn silkfly (adult), cow pea curculio, cranberry fruitworm, cranberry weevil, crickets, spotted %26amp; striped cucumber beetle (adults), cutworms, diamondback moth, European corn borer, fall webworm, filbert worm, flea beetle, grasshoppers, green cloverworm, green fruitworm, hickory shuckworm, imported cabbageworm, lacebug, leafhopper, leafrollers, lesser peach tree borer, loopers, lygus bug, Mexican bean beetle, naval orangeworm, oblique banded leafroller, oriental fruit moth, painted lady caterpillar, pea aphid, pea weevil, peach tree borer, peach twig borer, pecan nut casebearer, pecan spittlebug, pecan leaf phylloxera, pecan stem phylloxera, pear psylla, pecan aphid, pecan weevil, pepper weevil, pickleworm, plantbug, plum curculio, potato leafhopper, potato psyllid, potato tuberworm, red-banded leafroller, red striped fireworm, rindworm, rosy apple aphid, saltmarsh caterpillar, san jose scale (fruit only), sap beetle, southwestern corn borer, squash bug, squash vine borer, stalk borer, stink bug, tarnished plant bug, tentiform leaf miner, tobacco hornworm, tomato fruitworm, tomato hornworm, tomato pinworm, tufted apple budmoth, vegetable leafminer, velvetbean caterpillar, variegated leafroller, walnut aphid, walnut husk fly, weevils, western bean cutworm, and whitefly.
Around House, Foundations, Porches and Stored Lumber:
Ants (including carpenter ant, Lasius, Argentine, red harvester, pavement, odorous, pyramid, pharaoh), centipedes, cockroaches (including American, Asian, German), crickets, earwigs, fleas, house flies, millipedes, mosquitoes, palmetto bugs, scorpions, sowbugs, spiders, and ticks (including American, deer tick, brown dog tick)
Cautions
For outdoor use only. Harmful if swallowed. Causes moderate eye irritation. Avoid contact with eyes or clothing. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling.
Active Ingredients:
0.3% Bifenthrin
This works well. And y ou can find other things at http://www.ortho.com/index.cfm/event/Bug...
All of these can be found at the Home depot and if your ever in portchester store 1212 look for me I work in the garden there. Hope this helps you out.
Reply:You don't need chemicals. Make a collar out of cardboard . Cut a strip, tape in a circle around the plant stalk, press about 1/2 inch in the ground. This will keep the cut worm from curling around the plant stem and choking it off. THIS WORKS! I have used it for years and have zero damage from cut worms.
Reply:The above post from "ahuhyeah" regarding using cardboard wraps is absolutely correct!!! I have done the same thing for many years without fail.
Reply:It looks like the following chemicals may help with cutworms.
permethrin (Eight), acephate (Orthene), carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon.
What can I use sparingly around the base of susceptible plants to take them out?
What are the treatments for cutworms (not grubs) in my garden?
Ortho? Bug-B-Gon? MAX? Lawn %26amp; Garden Insect Killer Concentrate Ready-to-Spray
* Kills on contact
* Kills over 150 types of insects
* Provides residual control for up to 6 weeks
* Built-in applicator - no mixing, no measuring, and no mess
* Guaranteed!
usage
How to Use
Connect: Shake well before using. Connect sprayer to hose. Turn on water.
Spray: To begin spraying, point nozzle in the direction you want to spray. Bend small yellow plastic tab back and turn knob clockwise to ON position. Spray evenly over measured area.
Finish: To stop spraying, turn knob counter-clockwise to OFF position. Turn off water. Relieve water pressure by bending yellow plastic tab back and turning knob to ON position until water slows to a drip. Turn knob back to OFF position. Disconnect sprayer from hose.
When to Apply
Apply when insects first appear and repeat as necessary, but not more frequently than every 7-14 days.
Where to Use
* Roses and other ornamentals
* Vegetables and fruit trees listed on label
* Trees and shrubs
* Lawns
* Around house foundations, porches, patios and stored lumber.
Where Not to Use
For outdoor use only. Do not apply directly to water. Drifts and runoff from treated areas may be hazardous to aquatic organisms in treated areas. Do not contaminate water when disposing of equipment washwaters. Do not apply to humans or animals.
What It Controls
On Ornamental Plants (including: roses, flowers %26amp; shrubs):
Aphids, armyworms, bagworms, crickets, cutworms, Eastern spruce gall adelgade, elm leafbeetles, European pine sawfly, fall webworm, flea beetle, grasshoppers, greenbug aphids, gypsy moth, hornets, Japanese beetle (adults), lacebug, leafhopper, loopers, lygus bug, mealybugs, mimosa webworms, mosquitoes, northern pine weevil, oak webworm, orchard weevil, periodical cicada, pine chaffer, pine shoot weevil, plantbug, redheaded pine sawfly, saltmarsh caterpillar, sap beetle, sawfly, spittlebug, spruce mites, stink bug, tarnished plant bug, tent caterpillar, thrips, two spotted spider mite, wasp, whitefly, and Zimmerman pine moth.
On Lawns:
Ants (including carpenter, lawn, foraging fire ant, and Argentine), armyworms, black turfgrass ataenius, chinch bugs, crickets, cutworms, deer ticks, fleas, greenbugs (aphids), Japanese beetles (adults), mole crickets, mosquitoes, sod webworms, weevils (including billbugs and annual bluegrass)
On Vegetables %26amp; Melons:
Aphids, alfalfa caterpillar, alfalfa looper, American plum borer, apple aphid, apple maggot, armyworms, artichoke plume moth, beet armyworm, black cherry aphid, black vine weevil, blueberry spanworm, buckhorn aphid, cabbage loopers, carrot weevil, celery looper, cherry fruit fly, chinch bug, clover mites, codling moth, Colorado potato beetle, corn earworm, corn rootworm (adults), corn silkfly (adult), cow pea curculio, cranberry fruitworm, cranberry weevil, crickets, spotted %26amp; striped cucumber beetle (adults), cutworms, diamondback moth, European corn borer, fall webworm, filbert worm, flea beetle, grasshoppers, green cloverworm, green fruitworm, hickory shuckworm, imported cabbageworm, lacebug, leafhopper, leafrollers, lesser peach tree borer, loopers, lygus bug, Mexican bean beetle, naval orangeworm, oblique banded leafroller, oriental fruit moth, painted lady caterpillar, pea aphid, pea weevil, peach tree borer, peach twig borer, pecan nut casebearer, pecan spittlebug, pecan leaf phylloxera, pecan stem phylloxera, pear psylla, pecan aphid, pecan weevil, pepper weevil, pickleworm, plantbug, plum curculio, potato leafhopper, potato psyllid, potato tuberworm, red-banded leafroller, red striped fireworm, rindworm, rosy apple aphid, saltmarsh caterpillar, san jose scale (fruit only), sap beetle, southwestern corn borer, squash bug, squash vine borer, stalk borer, stink bug, tarnished plant bug, tentiform leaf miner, tobacco hornworm, tomato fruitworm, tomato hornworm, tomato pinworm, tufted apple budmoth, vegetable leafminer, velvetbean caterpillar, variegated leafroller, walnut aphid, walnut husk fly, weevils, western bean cutworm, and whitefly.
Around House, Foundations, Porches and Stored Lumber:
Ants (including carpenter ant, Lasius, Argentine, red harvester, pavement, odorous, pyramid, pharaoh), centipedes, cockroaches (including American, Asian, German), crickets, earwigs, fleas, house flies, millipedes, mosquitoes, palmetto bugs, scorpions, sowbugs, spiders, and ticks (including American, deer tick, brown dog tick)
Cautions
For outdoor use only. Harmful if swallowed. Causes moderate eye irritation. Avoid contact with eyes or clothing. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling.
Active Ingredients:
0.3% Bifenthrin
This works well. And y ou can find other things at http://www.ortho.com/index.cfm/event/Bug...
All of these can be found at the Home depot and if your ever in portchester store 1212 look for me I work in the garden there. Hope this helps you out.
Reply:You don't need chemicals. Make a collar out of cardboard . Cut a strip, tape in a circle around the plant stalk, press about 1/2 inch in the ground. This will keep the cut worm from curling around the plant stem and choking it off. THIS WORKS! I have used it for years and have zero damage from cut worms.
Reply:The above post from "ahuhyeah" regarding using cardboard wraps is absolutely correct!!! I have done the same thing for many years without fail.
Reply:It looks like the following chemicals may help with cutworms.
permethrin (Eight), acephate (Orthene), carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon.
If you just buried a banana peel in your vegetable garden, would it decompose?
If you just buried a banana peel, apple core, the center of the corn cob, orange peels and etc in a vegetable garden, would it decompose? How long would it take to decompose? Would it start to smell bad and attract more bugs than there already is?
If you just buried a banana peel in your vegetable garden, would it decompose?
Of course it would decompose... otherwise there would be banana skins and other bits of vegetables lying all over the place. The time it takes to decompose depends on lots of things... temperature, humidity, what else is in the ground with it.... anything from a few months to a year.
I would suggest, however, that rather than just burying the bits and pieces you place them in a composter. You then have better control of the waste and can speed up the decomposition process by adding layers of cardboard and leaves.
Reply:Banana peel is actually good to bury next to a rose bush. Gives nourishment to the rose bush.
Reply:yes, buried it won't smell
sports shoes
If you just buried a banana peel in your vegetable garden, would it decompose?
Of course it would decompose... otherwise there would be banana skins and other bits of vegetables lying all over the place. The time it takes to decompose depends on lots of things... temperature, humidity, what else is in the ground with it.... anything from a few months to a year.
I would suggest, however, that rather than just burying the bits and pieces you place them in a composter. You then have better control of the waste and can speed up the decomposition process by adding layers of cardboard and leaves.
Reply:Banana peel is actually good to bury next to a rose bush. Gives nourishment to the rose bush.
Reply:yes, buried it won't smell
sports shoes
Can grey water be used from (a) a dishwasher (b) a washing machine- on to veggie/flower garden.Is it safe?
I have 2 seperate pipes so I can re direct to diff parts of the garden-
Can grey water be used from (a) a dishwasher (b) a washing machine- on to veggie/flower garden.Is it safe?
Sheeze. I'm hesitating to answer this because you've already got answers all over the board. I spent 20 years in innovative on-site wastewater management design. Attended the American Society of Agricultural Engineers On-Site Wastewater Management Annual Conferences five of those years, and so on and so on and so on.
I'll waste the time typing this and tell you the water coming off the kitchen sink and dishwasher are nearer blackwater in their biological loading, than grey water. Put that into the sewer line or septic system.
The tub/shower and bathroom sink are legitimate grey water and worth using, though it's helpful to float off the soap in a grease trap before allowing it to run out wherever you plan to use it.
Reply:it is perfectly safe - I've done it before - the neat thing is any soap you use (which should be biodegradable) wards off pests...and the proteins from disjes and laundry help feed the soil. I would be careful to not launder any clothling soiled with oils or paints.
Reply:The detergents in the water will harm your plants. Set up a rain barrel for extra water for your gardens.
Reply:It is not recommended. Here's why; soap can raise the pH of the soil and increase salts, regardless of the type of soap. Vegetables to not do well in high salt soils or high pH soils, if at all, same with some flowers and trees.
In some states and or counties it is illegal to use your grey water. Do check with your city/county health department to find out if you can even use grey water first.
Reply:It seems safe enough, have a read through this though:
http://www.awa.asn.au/Content/Navigation...
Reply:For the most part, yes, provided you are not using chlorine bleach or a non-environmentally friendly soap. I use my gray washer water, and I use Oxy instead of bleach (much better for whitening, removing stains, and the environment) and enzyme cleaning tablets (no soap whatsoever). And, of course, assuming you are not washing clothes that have toxins on them (like work clothes might). A little soap isn't going to hurt, but too much can add toxins, hurt natural bacteria action in the soil, deposit nasty stuff in the soil, or damage the roots' ability to absorb water and nutrients. I have yet to find an EF soap for the dishwasher that actually does a good job, but if you want to set up a filtering system of a few layers of fiberfill and charcoal fiber or charcoal granules (similar to what's in a fish tank filter) this will do wonders for "cleaning" your cleaning water.
One thing to bear in mind, for optimum health, growth, and nutrint absorption, your plant should be watered in the morning before 10 AM (plants absorb water and nutrients during the day, grow at night), so you might want to think about a filtered holding tank.
Check first with your local Dept. of Environmental Protection, or Town Hall...some places do not allow you to drain gray water above ground (I know a couple of folks in Australia who were fined for doing it), and folks in the watershed areas around here aren't allowed to do it.
Reply:It doesn't seem logical that the harsh chemicals used in detergents combined with food residue and bacteria are healthful to plants.
Maybe you could try it on one specific plant for a period of time and observe the long-term effects...
Can grey water be used from (a) a dishwasher (b) a washing machine- on to veggie/flower garden.Is it safe?
Sheeze. I'm hesitating to answer this because you've already got answers all over the board. I spent 20 years in innovative on-site wastewater management design. Attended the American Society of Agricultural Engineers On-Site Wastewater Management Annual Conferences five of those years, and so on and so on and so on.
I'll waste the time typing this and tell you the water coming off the kitchen sink and dishwasher are nearer blackwater in their biological loading, than grey water. Put that into the sewer line or septic system.
The tub/shower and bathroom sink are legitimate grey water and worth using, though it's helpful to float off the soap in a grease trap before allowing it to run out wherever you plan to use it.
Reply:it is perfectly safe - I've done it before - the neat thing is any soap you use (which should be biodegradable) wards off pests...and the proteins from disjes and laundry help feed the soil. I would be careful to not launder any clothling soiled with oils or paints.
Reply:The detergents in the water will harm your plants. Set up a rain barrel for extra water for your gardens.
Reply:It is not recommended. Here's why; soap can raise the pH of the soil and increase salts, regardless of the type of soap. Vegetables to not do well in high salt soils or high pH soils, if at all, same with some flowers and trees.
In some states and or counties it is illegal to use your grey water. Do check with your city/county health department to find out if you can even use grey water first.
Reply:It seems safe enough, have a read through this though:
http://www.awa.asn.au/Content/Navigation...
Reply:For the most part, yes, provided you are not using chlorine bleach or a non-environmentally friendly soap. I use my gray washer water, and I use Oxy instead of bleach (much better for whitening, removing stains, and the environment) and enzyme cleaning tablets (no soap whatsoever). And, of course, assuming you are not washing clothes that have toxins on them (like work clothes might). A little soap isn't going to hurt, but too much can add toxins, hurt natural bacteria action in the soil, deposit nasty stuff in the soil, or damage the roots' ability to absorb water and nutrients. I have yet to find an EF soap for the dishwasher that actually does a good job, but if you want to set up a filtering system of a few layers of fiberfill and charcoal fiber or charcoal granules (similar to what's in a fish tank filter) this will do wonders for "cleaning" your cleaning water.
One thing to bear in mind, for optimum health, growth, and nutrint absorption, your plant should be watered in the morning before 10 AM (plants absorb water and nutrients during the day, grow at night), so you might want to think about a filtered holding tank.
Check first with your local Dept. of Environmental Protection, or Town Hall...some places do not allow you to drain gray water above ground (I know a couple of folks in Australia who were fined for doing it), and folks in the watershed areas around here aren't allowed to do it.
Reply:It doesn't seem logical that the harsh chemicals used in detergents combined with food residue and bacteria are healthful to plants.
Maybe you could try it on one specific plant for a period of time and observe the long-term effects...
How can I keep Cyperus Papyrus from spreading in my garden?
I'm have 3 papyrus plants (still in pot) that I'm getting ready to plant in soil. What methods are there to keep this from spreading throughout my garden? Someone told me to plant it in the pot (i.e. dig a hole and put the whole pot in). Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
How can I keep Cyperus Papyrus from spreading in my garden?
That is one of the easiest ways to keep something from spreading. If the plants have lived in those pots for a while - move them into a larger pot first. Then just dig a whole big enough for the whole pot to fit in the ground. There isn't anything else to it.
Good luck! And water them quite a bit.
Reply:I'm guessing you have Cyperus alternifolia http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/vi... rather than Cyperus papyrus: http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/vi...
Mine (alternifolia and papyrus) have been in the ground for 2 years and haven't spread appreciably. If yours start to creep where you don't want it, just dig it out. C alternifolia roots in water, C papyrus propagated by seed (extremely small, dust size seeds). Both take full sun and love wet feet.
How can I keep Cyperus Papyrus from spreading in my garden?
That is one of the easiest ways to keep something from spreading. If the plants have lived in those pots for a while - move them into a larger pot first. Then just dig a whole big enough for the whole pot to fit in the ground. There isn't anything else to it.
Good luck! And water them quite a bit.
Reply:I'm guessing you have Cyperus alternifolia http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/vi... rather than Cyperus papyrus: http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/vi...
Mine (alternifolia and papyrus) have been in the ground for 2 years and haven't spread appreciably. If yours start to creep where you don't want it, just dig it out. C alternifolia roots in water, C papyrus propagated by seed (extremely small, dust size seeds). Both take full sun and love wet feet.
What are those tiny black insects that appear in the garden in the afternoon?
they are about 2mm long and come out mid afternoon for a few hours. they seem harmless but are so numerous they make sitting in the garden impossible and invade the house if windows are open.
can they be got rid of?
What are those tiny black insects that appear in the garden in the afternoon?
Sounds like Thrips.
Minute insect usually brown or black with very slender bodies and usually two pairs of narrow fringed wings. Commonly found in flowers. Unlikely to be confused with anything else.
They live in flowers, and are particularly attracted to the colour yellow.
Populations can grow to numbers where they become a nuisance.
Over 150 species in UK.
Harmless, unless you get them in your eye - which can be quite unpleasant!
Reply:nats
Reply:gnats or midges
Reply:ants?
fruit flies?
Reply:corn flies off harvesting the corn fields
Reply:flies midges gnats all sorts i was camping a few weeks ago and it was a night mare we was told about citronella candles they really do work all bugs bogged off for good available from b%26amp;q homebase etc we got ours from wilcos for a couple of quid problem sorted! :)
Reply:Gnats or midges try a fogger or citronella torch.
Reply:This is usually a sign that your house is possessed by an evil spiritual entity.
Reply:You mean Thunder bugs.
Bloody nuisance make you itch and they reach the places nothing else will and then curl up and die to be stuck just out of reach for ever
Reply:Although often called thunderbugs, they are actually a kind of thrip. They dont bite or sting, but can be really annoying. But there are sooo many kinds of insects, that it probably depends where you live, and what types of trees and plants grow near you.
Reply:Thunder bugs- apparently meant to herald the coming of a storm, but doesn't always seem to be the case.
can they be got rid of?
What are those tiny black insects that appear in the garden in the afternoon?
Sounds like Thrips.
Minute insect usually brown or black with very slender bodies and usually two pairs of narrow fringed wings. Commonly found in flowers. Unlikely to be confused with anything else.
They live in flowers, and are particularly attracted to the colour yellow.
Populations can grow to numbers where they become a nuisance.
Over 150 species in UK.
Harmless, unless you get them in your eye - which can be quite unpleasant!
Reply:nats
Reply:gnats or midges
Reply:ants?
fruit flies?
Reply:corn flies off harvesting the corn fields
Reply:flies midges gnats all sorts i was camping a few weeks ago and it was a night mare we was told about citronella candles they really do work all bugs bogged off for good available from b%26amp;q homebase etc we got ours from wilcos for a couple of quid problem sorted! :)
Reply:Gnats or midges try a fogger or citronella torch.
Reply:This is usually a sign that your house is possessed by an evil spiritual entity.
Reply:You mean Thunder bugs.
Bloody nuisance make you itch and they reach the places nothing else will and then curl up and die to be stuck just out of reach for ever
Reply:Although often called thunderbugs, they are actually a kind of thrip. They dont bite or sting, but can be really annoying. But there are sooo many kinds of insects, that it probably depends where you live, and what types of trees and plants grow near you.
Reply:Thunder bugs- apparently meant to herald the coming of a storm, but doesn't always seem to be the case.
What is the job title of someone who errects a garden fence?
need to get someone to put up a garden fence but dont no what to look up as the job title!!!
(If anyone intresting in doing the job im in Barnet Herts!!)
What is the job title of someone who errects a garden fence?
Go to www.yell.com , search for "fencing contractor" in "barnet" there are quite a few!!!!! Can I suggest that you price up the cost of concrete posts/gravel boards against wood? Not as much difference.... My own fences (in Hatfield, just up the road) have been no problem since i went to concrete posts, despite the high winds lately.
Reply:how about a joiner or landscape engineer
Reply:Look up fencing manufacturer they will tell you who puts
up fences. also most landscape gardeners will do the job.
Reply:You are looking for a fencer.
Reply:title is "a fencer" look up fences and posts !!!
Reply:fencing contractor or a good landscape gardener
Reply:An Errectionist!
Reply:Landscaper
Carpenter
Fence Builder
Reply:Look in your local Yellow Pages or local free newspaper. Avoid adverts that give only a mobile number.
Reply:simple fencer
Reply:Try an odd job man, garden landscaper or a joiner.
Reply:i think that might be a fencer? i dunno
Reply:Landscape Gardeners will do jobs like that.
Reply:a fence erector
Reply:fence installer
Reply:It's a Fencer. My mate's a fencer his name is D'artagnon.
Reply:A builder, or handyman....
ljuliano11s
(If anyone intresting in doing the job im in Barnet Herts!!)
What is the job title of someone who errects a garden fence?
Go to www.yell.com , search for "fencing contractor" in "barnet" there are quite a few!!!!! Can I suggest that you price up the cost of concrete posts/gravel boards against wood? Not as much difference.... My own fences (in Hatfield, just up the road) have been no problem since i went to concrete posts, despite the high winds lately.
Reply:how about a joiner or landscape engineer
Reply:Look up fencing manufacturer they will tell you who puts
up fences. also most landscape gardeners will do the job.
Reply:You are looking for a fencer.
Reply:title is "a fencer" look up fences and posts !!!
Reply:fencing contractor or a good landscape gardener
Reply:An Errectionist!
Reply:Landscaper
Carpenter
Fence Builder
Reply:Look in your local Yellow Pages or local free newspaper. Avoid adverts that give only a mobile number.
Reply:simple fencer
Reply:Try an odd job man, garden landscaper or a joiner.
Reply:i think that might be a fencer? i dunno
Reply:Landscape Gardeners will do jobs like that.
Reply:a fence erector
Reply:fence installer
Reply:It's a Fencer. My mate's a fencer his name is D'artagnon.
Reply:A builder, or handyman....
ljuliano11s
What are the best plants to have for a wildlife garden?
I'm moving soon from a first floor flat to a two bedroom house and would love to make my garden very animal/bird/insect friendly.
What are the best plants to have for a wildlife garden?
I am doing something similiar. I am gardening not just for the flowers, but also to attract more wildlife. Different things may be required depending on the species you are after, but in general you want to offer a few things.
One is hiding places, so rocks and logs are good things to have, as well as trees, bushes, and weedy borders.
The other is a source of food. Butterflies and birds need a constant source of nectar and berries. So choose a combination of plants that provide those things all year. For example, many birds eat two kinds of berries - berries with high sugar content in the growing season and berries with high fat content in the winter.
The other big wildife attractor is water. Many of the rarest wildlife live in wetlands. So some sort of pool or soggy ground is a plus for many species.
Other things really depend on what you're after. Different size seeds and nest boxes attract different kinds of birds. Different insects want different things. For example I'm interested in attracting native pollinator such as bees and flies. Many of the species that live here in the US are burrowing species that require vegetation free sand to nest in. So I'm going to make a sand feature of some kind. Hope this helps.
Reply:Thank you all so much for the really helpful answers. Report It
Reply:You'll need a pond with bubbling water as the sound atttracts birds. Have some places where birds can hide from predators, have a bird feeder and you might also want bird houses. Do not use pesticides or herbicides as they kill the insects that the birds (and frogs and bats and snakes) eat. Consider using plants that will be used by insects to eat and lay their young on.
Reply:triffids - but be careful - they bite!
Reply:That completely depends. What kind of wildlife do you want, and where do you live? In general, if you want to attract native wildlife, you should plant native species. There is probably a natvie plants nursery around your area somewhere - they can give you more guidance about attracting particular types of wildlife. Good luck!
Reply:check out the rspb org site they have some really good ideas and will even supply a packet of wildflower seeds to plant out to attract wildlife
Reply:Any native plant will work best. Go to the local garden center and ask if they have any native plants, and they will help you.
Reply:Weeds work the best...they grow naturally and require little or no maintenance.
When you welcome birds and butterflies to your yard, you add colors, movements, and sounds that make your garden seem more alive and vibrant. The following tips from the National Audubon Society will help you create a habitat that allows wildlife to flourish.
Reply:What a lovely question! Lucky you, that sounds great.
Well, birds and butterflies like Budlea, easy to grow and pretty in July. Also Hebe - pretty shrubs, lots of varities available.
The English Marigold are lovely - much nicer than French or African. You can buy packets of seed "Calendula" - bright ornage and gorgeous.
Maybe a red rose for its beauty and choose one with a good scent, such as Ena Harkness.
Geraniums - so many lovely wild ones - Johnson's Blue is my favourite perenial.
Honeysuckle is a must for its gloroius scent!!
Valerian which grows wold in the West Country - great for its herbal properties (helps to relax you)
St John's Wort, beautiful yellow flowers
Evening Primroses
Hollyhocks, sweet peas and forget me nots. All will re-seed themselves every year.
It sounds fun, I hope you have fun choosing!
Reply:all the plants that are weeds in big gardens you will need nettles bramble around the edges poppies daisy/clover /buddlea also grass around the back of your garden do not cut grass and goodluck
Reply:It would help to know what zone you live in. In any case, your best bet would be to plant things that are native to your area. On a general note, purple coneflower and any types of sedums attract butterflies. Climbing honeysuckle and daylillies attract hummingbirds. As for other insects and animals, I'm not sure. I'd check with a local garden center. The staff at most of these are quite knowledgeable. Plus you might want to visit a local bookstore or library and get some books on the subject. That's how I got started with my garden and it helped quite a bit.
Reply:For bees, moths and butterflies; Buddleia (butterfly bush); california poppy, poppy, thyme, white (dead) nettle, stinging nettle, everlasting sunflower, clover in the lawn, runner beans up the fence.
For birds; millet, sunflower, poppy (all contain seeds over winter), anything that gets aphids such as roses and nasturtiums for the sparrows and wrens to feed their young, some cabbages for the caterpillars.
Reply:It depends on what you want to attract and in what zone you live. Also, we can't input pictures here and you would want to choose your own style and colors.
You can get the answers you need by emailing VERMONTWILDFLOWERFARM@YAHOO.COM
They are located in Burlington Vermont and will be able to tell you what you can grow depending on your location and which species will attract the birds and other wildlife you want.
I love that place!
6 acres of beautiful wild flowers - both annual and perannual.
I bought three bags of seed - one for butterfiles, another for birds and yet another a mix of both and hummingbird flowers.
Every year they come up and many are different. I never know which color will come up next!
I used a partly shaded area at the end of my property - spanning and acre long and five feet deep. Put in cut logs (used them like benches) and other items every 20 feet or so.
No weeding, no watering after the first season.
Virtually mainenance free and beautiful every day!
Have fun!
Reply:I bought a box of 'wild meadow' seeds couple of years ago, and I have all the bees and butterflies from miles around visiting!!! the good thing too is that some of the seeds were bi-anual (which I just discovered), so the flowers that popped up this year are diferent to last year so a nice surprise. My daughter kinda 'scattered' the seeds, so they landed thick, and I dont know if the weeds are just blending in well, but I've not had to pull a single one this year.
We have a very old apple tree too, and put a nest box in the fist year we came here and have had visitors to it every spring. You are going to love having a garden!
Reply:Try plants that a native to your area first.They will be the best for attracting the best kinds of garden attention.
Reply:I'm creating one for my daughter's school and planting a buddlea, ox eye daisy, lavender, verbena, honeysuckle, perrenial foxglove and thyme.
Reply:Trees:
Craetagus spp.: Hawthorn
Juniperus virginiana: Eastern Red Cedar
Juniperus scopulorum: Rocky Mtn. Juniper
Malus sp.: Crabapples
Picea pungens: Colorado Blue Spruce
Pinus ponderosa: Ponderosa Pine
Pseudotsuga menziesii: Douglas Fir
Quercus spp.: Oak Perennials:
Aster novae-angliae: New England Aster
Campanula spp.: Campanula
Centaurea Montana: Perennial Bachelor Buttons
Chrysanthemum spp.: Chrysanthemum
Coreopsis spp.: Coreopsis
Echinacea purpurea: Purple Coneflower
Echinops ritro: Globe Thistle
Gaillardia grandiflora: Blanket Flower
Helenium autumnale: Sneezeweed
Helianthus spp.: Sunflowers
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi: Kinnikinnick
Kniphofia uvaria: Red Hot Poker
Monardo fistulosa: Horsemint
Papaver spp.: Poppies
Rudbeckia spp.: Black-eyed Susans
Sedum spectabile: Showy Sedum
Solidago spp.: Goldenrod
Shrubs:
Acer ginnala: Amur Maple
Amelanchier Canadensis: Juneberry
Cornus sericea: Redtwig Dogwood
Cotoneaster spp.: Cotoneaster
Juniperus chinensis: Juniper
Ligustrum spp.: Privet
Lonicera spp.: Honeysuckle
Prunus spp.: Prunus
Pyracantha coccinea: Scarlet Firethorn
Rhus spp.: Sumac
Ribes spp.: Currents and Gooseberrie
Rosa spp.: Wild Roses
Sambucus canadensis: American Elder
Shepherdia argentea: Silver Buffaloberry
Symphoricarpos spp.: Coralberry, Snowberry
Syringa spp.: Lilac
Viburnum spp.: Viburnum
Vines:
Parthenocissus quinquefolia: Virginia Creeper
Perennials:
Aster novae-angliae: New England Aster
Campanula spp.: Campanula
Centaurea Montana: Perennial Bachelor Buttons
Chrysanthemum spp.: Chrysanthemum
Coreopsis spp.: Coreopsis
Echinacea purpurea: Purple Coneflower
Echinops ritro: Globe Thistle
Gaillardia grandiflora: Blanket Flower
Helenium autumnale: Sneezeweed
Helianthus spp.: Sunflowers
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi: Kinnikinnick
Kniphofia uvaria: Red Hot Poker
Monardo fistulosa: Horsemint
Papaver spp.: Poppies
Rudbeckia spp.: Black-eyed Susans
Sedum spectabile: Showy Sedum
Solidago spp.: Goldenrod
What are the best plants to have for a wildlife garden?
I am doing something similiar. I am gardening not just for the flowers, but also to attract more wildlife. Different things may be required depending on the species you are after, but in general you want to offer a few things.
One is hiding places, so rocks and logs are good things to have, as well as trees, bushes, and weedy borders.
The other is a source of food. Butterflies and birds need a constant source of nectar and berries. So choose a combination of plants that provide those things all year. For example, many birds eat two kinds of berries - berries with high sugar content in the growing season and berries with high fat content in the winter.
The other big wildife attractor is water. Many of the rarest wildlife live in wetlands. So some sort of pool or soggy ground is a plus for many species.
Other things really depend on what you're after. Different size seeds and nest boxes attract different kinds of birds. Different insects want different things. For example I'm interested in attracting native pollinator such as bees and flies. Many of the species that live here in the US are burrowing species that require vegetation free sand to nest in. So I'm going to make a sand feature of some kind. Hope this helps.
Reply:Thank you all so much for the really helpful answers. Report It
Reply:You'll need a pond with bubbling water as the sound atttracts birds. Have some places where birds can hide from predators, have a bird feeder and you might also want bird houses. Do not use pesticides or herbicides as they kill the insects that the birds (and frogs and bats and snakes) eat. Consider using plants that will be used by insects to eat and lay their young on.
Reply:triffids - but be careful - they bite!
Reply:That completely depends. What kind of wildlife do you want, and where do you live? In general, if you want to attract native wildlife, you should plant native species. There is probably a natvie plants nursery around your area somewhere - they can give you more guidance about attracting particular types of wildlife. Good luck!
Reply:check out the rspb org site they have some really good ideas and will even supply a packet of wildflower seeds to plant out to attract wildlife
Reply:Any native plant will work best. Go to the local garden center and ask if they have any native plants, and they will help you.
Reply:Weeds work the best...they grow naturally and require little or no maintenance.
When you welcome birds and butterflies to your yard, you add colors, movements, and sounds that make your garden seem more alive and vibrant. The following tips from the National Audubon Society will help you create a habitat that allows wildlife to flourish.
Reply:What a lovely question! Lucky you, that sounds great.
Well, birds and butterflies like Budlea, easy to grow and pretty in July. Also Hebe - pretty shrubs, lots of varities available.
The English Marigold are lovely - much nicer than French or African. You can buy packets of seed "Calendula" - bright ornage and gorgeous.
Maybe a red rose for its beauty and choose one with a good scent, such as Ena Harkness.
Geraniums - so many lovely wild ones - Johnson's Blue is my favourite perenial.
Honeysuckle is a must for its gloroius scent!!
Valerian which grows wold in the West Country - great for its herbal properties (helps to relax you)
St John's Wort, beautiful yellow flowers
Evening Primroses
Hollyhocks, sweet peas and forget me nots. All will re-seed themselves every year.
It sounds fun, I hope you have fun choosing!
Reply:all the plants that are weeds in big gardens you will need nettles bramble around the edges poppies daisy/clover /buddlea also grass around the back of your garden do not cut grass and goodluck
Reply:It would help to know what zone you live in. In any case, your best bet would be to plant things that are native to your area. On a general note, purple coneflower and any types of sedums attract butterflies. Climbing honeysuckle and daylillies attract hummingbirds. As for other insects and animals, I'm not sure. I'd check with a local garden center. The staff at most of these are quite knowledgeable. Plus you might want to visit a local bookstore or library and get some books on the subject. That's how I got started with my garden and it helped quite a bit.
Reply:For bees, moths and butterflies; Buddleia (butterfly bush); california poppy, poppy, thyme, white (dead) nettle, stinging nettle, everlasting sunflower, clover in the lawn, runner beans up the fence.
For birds; millet, sunflower, poppy (all contain seeds over winter), anything that gets aphids such as roses and nasturtiums for the sparrows and wrens to feed their young, some cabbages for the caterpillars.
Reply:It depends on what you want to attract and in what zone you live. Also, we can't input pictures here and you would want to choose your own style and colors.
You can get the answers you need by emailing VERMONTWILDFLOWERFARM@YAHOO.COM
They are located in Burlington Vermont and will be able to tell you what you can grow depending on your location and which species will attract the birds and other wildlife you want.
I love that place!
6 acres of beautiful wild flowers - both annual and perannual.
I bought three bags of seed - one for butterfiles, another for birds and yet another a mix of both and hummingbird flowers.
Every year they come up and many are different. I never know which color will come up next!
I used a partly shaded area at the end of my property - spanning and acre long and five feet deep. Put in cut logs (used them like benches) and other items every 20 feet or so.
No weeding, no watering after the first season.
Virtually mainenance free and beautiful every day!
Have fun!
Reply:I bought a box of 'wild meadow' seeds couple of years ago, and I have all the bees and butterflies from miles around visiting!!! the good thing too is that some of the seeds were bi-anual (which I just discovered), so the flowers that popped up this year are diferent to last year so a nice surprise. My daughter kinda 'scattered' the seeds, so they landed thick, and I dont know if the weeds are just blending in well, but I've not had to pull a single one this year.
We have a very old apple tree too, and put a nest box in the fist year we came here and have had visitors to it every spring. You are going to love having a garden!
Reply:Try plants that a native to your area first.They will be the best for attracting the best kinds of garden attention.
Reply:I'm creating one for my daughter's school and planting a buddlea, ox eye daisy, lavender, verbena, honeysuckle, perrenial foxglove and thyme.
Reply:Trees:
Craetagus spp.: Hawthorn
Juniperus virginiana: Eastern Red Cedar
Juniperus scopulorum: Rocky Mtn. Juniper
Malus sp.: Crabapples
Picea pungens: Colorado Blue Spruce
Pinus ponderosa: Ponderosa Pine
Pseudotsuga menziesii: Douglas Fir
Quercus spp.: Oak Perennials:
Aster novae-angliae: New England Aster
Campanula spp.: Campanula
Centaurea Montana: Perennial Bachelor Buttons
Chrysanthemum spp.: Chrysanthemum
Coreopsis spp.: Coreopsis
Echinacea purpurea: Purple Coneflower
Echinops ritro: Globe Thistle
Gaillardia grandiflora: Blanket Flower
Helenium autumnale: Sneezeweed
Helianthus spp.: Sunflowers
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi: Kinnikinnick
Kniphofia uvaria: Red Hot Poker
Monardo fistulosa: Horsemint
Papaver spp.: Poppies
Rudbeckia spp.: Black-eyed Susans
Sedum spectabile: Showy Sedum
Solidago spp.: Goldenrod
Shrubs:
Acer ginnala: Amur Maple
Amelanchier Canadensis: Juneberry
Cornus sericea: Redtwig Dogwood
Cotoneaster spp.: Cotoneaster
Juniperus chinensis: Juniper
Ligustrum spp.: Privet
Lonicera spp.: Honeysuckle
Prunus spp.: Prunus
Pyracantha coccinea: Scarlet Firethorn
Rhus spp.: Sumac
Ribes spp.: Currents and Gooseberrie
Rosa spp.: Wild Roses
Sambucus canadensis: American Elder
Shepherdia argentea: Silver Buffaloberry
Symphoricarpos spp.: Coralberry, Snowberry
Syringa spp.: Lilac
Viburnum spp.: Viburnum
Vines:
Parthenocissus quinquefolia: Virginia Creeper
Perennials:
Aster novae-angliae: New England Aster
Campanula spp.: Campanula
Centaurea Montana: Perennial Bachelor Buttons
Chrysanthemum spp.: Chrysanthemum
Coreopsis spp.: Coreopsis
Echinacea purpurea: Purple Coneflower
Echinops ritro: Globe Thistle
Gaillardia grandiflora: Blanket Flower
Helenium autumnale: Sneezeweed
Helianthus spp.: Sunflowers
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi: Kinnikinnick
Kniphofia uvaria: Red Hot Poker
Monardo fistulosa: Horsemint
Papaver spp.: Poppies
Rudbeckia spp.: Black-eyed Susans
Sedum spectabile: Showy Sedum
Solidago spp.: Goldenrod
What are the easiet flowers to care for an outside garden?
Never had a garden.
What are the easiet flowers to care for an outside garden?
There are a number of perennials that are easy to grow. Perennials are plants that come up every year so are very hardy plants. Some are very invasive by sending out underground roots and taking over your garden so be cautious of those ones (read the plant tag or ask at the garden centre or get a perennial book to look them up yourself). Peonies are wonderful plants that are not invasive and are very loyal to come up for many years. Hosta is another plant that is a great garden plant. It needs dividing every few years as it gets bigger every year. Any plant in the "sedum" or "succulent" groups are wonderful in the garden. They tolerate drought well and are good in sun or part shade and come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colours. I also love Obedience Plant as it blooms later in the season and is quite pretty. I could go on and on but these are some that I suggest for now. Have fun in your garden.
Reply:I agree with pistolpower. We plant impatients every year and they grow and grow and grow! As long as they have water and sun they'll grow. Full sun, part sun... doesn't matter! They fill in and overflow creating a beautiful blanket. They come in lots of colours too! Report It
Reply:Iris and Lilies. when you buy them get the variety of lily that says hearty. They are beautiful and come up every year and are no fus except keeping the snails off them and i got some great advice on here how to do that. Ive had them for many years. Also shasta daisys and blackeyed susans.
Reply:Day lilies are the easiest to grow. They tolerate heat and drought and most are disease resistant.
Reply:Impatiens, wax begonias, celosia, snapdragons, marigolds. Just plant them and they are there until frost.
Reply:perennials: daylilies, oriental lilies, irises, daffodils, hyacinths, hostas (shade)
Annuals: Profusion zinnias, lantana, geranium, impatiens (shade only), petunias
Reply:A wild flower seed mix is great to get. It reseeds itself and has a variety of flowers in bloom from spring through the first frost in the fall.
Also, annuals such as pansies and patunias are great. Marigolds are a natural insect repellant so they're wonderful to plant with your tomatos if you choose to plant those. Flowers and veggies always look cute combined together so it isn't a problem to plant them in the same beds.
Oh, And Don't feel discouraged if any of your plant fail to thrive. It's all a part of the gardening experiance.
Happy Gardening
What are the easiet flowers to care for an outside garden?
There are a number of perennials that are easy to grow. Perennials are plants that come up every year so are very hardy plants. Some are very invasive by sending out underground roots and taking over your garden so be cautious of those ones (read the plant tag or ask at the garden centre or get a perennial book to look them up yourself). Peonies are wonderful plants that are not invasive and are very loyal to come up for many years. Hosta is another plant that is a great garden plant. It needs dividing every few years as it gets bigger every year. Any plant in the "sedum" or "succulent" groups are wonderful in the garden. They tolerate drought well and are good in sun or part shade and come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colours. I also love Obedience Plant as it blooms later in the season and is quite pretty. I could go on and on but these are some that I suggest for now. Have fun in your garden.
Reply:I agree with pistolpower. We plant impatients every year and they grow and grow and grow! As long as they have water and sun they'll grow. Full sun, part sun... doesn't matter! They fill in and overflow creating a beautiful blanket. They come in lots of colours too! Report It
Reply:Iris and Lilies. when you buy them get the variety of lily that says hearty. They are beautiful and come up every year and are no fus except keeping the snails off them and i got some great advice on here how to do that. Ive had them for many years. Also shasta daisys and blackeyed susans.
Reply:Day lilies are the easiest to grow. They tolerate heat and drought and most are disease resistant.
Reply:Impatiens, wax begonias, celosia, snapdragons, marigolds. Just plant them and they are there until frost.
Reply:perennials: daylilies, oriental lilies, irises, daffodils, hyacinths, hostas (shade)
Annuals: Profusion zinnias, lantana, geranium, impatiens (shade only), petunias
Reply:A wild flower seed mix is great to get. It reseeds itself and has a variety of flowers in bloom from spring through the first frost in the fall.
Also, annuals such as pansies and patunias are great. Marigolds are a natural insect repellant so they're wonderful to plant with your tomatos if you choose to plant those. Flowers and veggies always look cute combined together so it isn't a problem to plant them in the same beds.
Oh, And Don't feel discouraged if any of your plant fail to thrive. It's all a part of the gardening experiance.
Happy Gardening
How can i easily add vitamins and nutrients to my garden?
is there something i can just spread over the top of the soil. its a flower garden will all kinds a plants, so i'm looking for something that will be good for all plants.
How can i easily add vitamins and nutrients to my garden?
No need to add vitamins -- they don't do anything special for your garden.
Try adding a top dressing of 1/4-1/2" of well cured compost
as often as possible, assuming you're dealing with perennials. If you've got annuals, dig in as much compost as possible before the growing season, plant and keep things mulched.
HOWEVER, not all plants grow best in a highly organic soil; for instance, the roots of alpine plants may rot in water-retentive soils, and compost increases water retention. But for most common garden plants, compost is great.
Also, get a soils test (talk to your state extension agency) and fertilize and lime per recommendations.
Reply:Compost is great for building up your soil. You can buy bags of composted cow manure at the home center. Or, you can make your own. Making your own takes time and space. If it's a huge flower garden, buy it by the truckload. It's cheaper that way anyway.
Reply:Worm castings (vermiculture) is the best vitamin shot you can give your plants. But second to that would be oak leaf mulch-decomposed-black oak actually-can't be beat!
Reply:Make a compost pile of leaves and grass clippings and other materials from green weeds, coffee grounds and so forth. Let it rot turning occasionally. When it is the consistency of soil add the nutrient rich mulch to your garden.
Reply:Yes, compost or composted manure or both.
How can i easily add vitamins and nutrients to my garden?
No need to add vitamins -- they don't do anything special for your garden.
Try adding a top dressing of 1/4-1/2" of well cured compost
as often as possible, assuming you're dealing with perennials. If you've got annuals, dig in as much compost as possible before the growing season, plant and keep things mulched.
HOWEVER, not all plants grow best in a highly organic soil; for instance, the roots of alpine plants may rot in water-retentive soils, and compost increases water retention. But for most common garden plants, compost is great.
Also, get a soils test (talk to your state extension agency) and fertilize and lime per recommendations.
Reply:Compost is great for building up your soil. You can buy bags of composted cow manure at the home center. Or, you can make your own. Making your own takes time and space. If it's a huge flower garden, buy it by the truckload. It's cheaper that way anyway.
Reply:Worm castings (vermiculture) is the best vitamin shot you can give your plants. But second to that would be oak leaf mulch-decomposed-black oak actually-can't be beat!
Reply:Make a compost pile of leaves and grass clippings and other materials from green weeds, coffee grounds and so forth. Let it rot turning occasionally. When it is the consistency of soil add the nutrient rich mulch to your garden.
Reply:Yes, compost or composted manure or both.
What sort of flowers should I plant for a butterfly garden?
I am wanting to turn a small area of my yard into a butterfly/hummingbird garden. What sort of plants would be best to plant there (prefer annual plants)? I live in IN if that helps and any websites you could direct me to would be great!
Thanks!
What sort of flowers should I plant for a butterfly garden?
i have alink here for you to look at!hope it helps!just about all flowers will do!but this link will give you a more in debth look at it!http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfact...
Reply:Here's a website that shows plants and which butterflies they attract specifically for your state, Indiana. I am doing this in my garden also but in California.. I know Milkweed is a good plant for the Monarch butterfly which is common here. Good luck
http://www.thebutterflysite.com/indiana-...
Reply:quins lace is grate for attracting monarchs. tigerlily`s and forget`me`nots attract thees rely cool black blue and yellow butterfly`s
Reply:Definitely add a Butterfly Bush or (Buddleia). I have Purple Cone Flower and Black Eyed Susan's but the Butterfly Bushes attract all of the butterflies. I have six of the Butterfly Bushes in six different colors. Pink, White, Black (dark purple), Red ( dark pink), Lavender, and Yellow. The Red and the White attract the most butterflies in my view. They also attract a number of hummingbirds. These bushes are very durable and disease resistant. In colder climates they often die back to the ground but they will grow back true to form by mid-summer. They like full sun and can grow 8+ feet. I keep mine pruned to 5-6 feet and every few days I deadhead the spent blooms. The only word of caution is to only transplant when they are dormant. They don't like to be moved and suffer from major transplant shock. Other than that they are TOUGH. Each color has it's own scent and they all smell great. On a warm summer night the smell fills the air. I have seen these for sell at Lowe's and Home Depot for less than $5.00 each. The most butterflies I have ever counted at one time was 13. And who says 13 is unlucky. Best of luck!!! :)
Reply:Your climate is very similar to mine (southern Michigan). Our butterfly garden has lots of hydrangea, batchelor buttons, black-eyed Susans, coneflowers, dianthis, lots of herbs they especially love my basil, bee balm, bergamot, Russian sage, lemon verbena and catnip (go figure! the cats love it too)
There's also a plant called a butterfly plant that most of the greenhouses and places like Home Depot/Lowes carry. It's a sweet scented plant that isn't going to be the focal point of your garden...until it's covered with Monarchs in the middle of June all the way til September. They seem to love it almost as much as the lemon verbena and Russian sage.
Good luck...hope you have a beautiful garden. And if you're looking for good resources contact the Nature Museum in Chicago or the Chicago Botanical Gardens. Both have wonderful butterfly resources and are in the same climate as you.
Reply:butterfly plants and zinnias! they also re-seed every year...
Reply:borrelia davidii , common trumpet vine , marigold , chives , clover , dame's rocket , dandelion , grape hyacinth , lilac , moss phlox , peony , privet , spicebush , virginia bluebell .
Reply:plant a couple of emos in there
website host
Thanks!
What sort of flowers should I plant for a butterfly garden?
i have alink here for you to look at!hope it helps!just about all flowers will do!but this link will give you a more in debth look at it!http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfact...
Reply:Here's a website that shows plants and which butterflies they attract specifically for your state, Indiana. I am doing this in my garden also but in California.. I know Milkweed is a good plant for the Monarch butterfly which is common here. Good luck
http://www.thebutterflysite.com/indiana-...
Reply:quins lace is grate for attracting monarchs. tigerlily`s and forget`me`nots attract thees rely cool black blue and yellow butterfly`s
Reply:Definitely add a Butterfly Bush or (Buddleia). I have Purple Cone Flower and Black Eyed Susan's but the Butterfly Bushes attract all of the butterflies. I have six of the Butterfly Bushes in six different colors. Pink, White, Black (dark purple), Red ( dark pink), Lavender, and Yellow. The Red and the White attract the most butterflies in my view. They also attract a number of hummingbirds. These bushes are very durable and disease resistant. In colder climates they often die back to the ground but they will grow back true to form by mid-summer. They like full sun and can grow 8+ feet. I keep mine pruned to 5-6 feet and every few days I deadhead the spent blooms. The only word of caution is to only transplant when they are dormant. They don't like to be moved and suffer from major transplant shock. Other than that they are TOUGH. Each color has it's own scent and they all smell great. On a warm summer night the smell fills the air. I have seen these for sell at Lowe's and Home Depot for less than $5.00 each. The most butterflies I have ever counted at one time was 13. And who says 13 is unlucky. Best of luck!!! :)
Reply:Your climate is very similar to mine (southern Michigan). Our butterfly garden has lots of hydrangea, batchelor buttons, black-eyed Susans, coneflowers, dianthis, lots of herbs they especially love my basil, bee balm, bergamot, Russian sage, lemon verbena and catnip (go figure! the cats love it too)
There's also a plant called a butterfly plant that most of the greenhouses and places like Home Depot/Lowes carry. It's a sweet scented plant that isn't going to be the focal point of your garden...until it's covered with Monarchs in the middle of June all the way til September. They seem to love it almost as much as the lemon verbena and Russian sage.
Good luck...hope you have a beautiful garden. And if you're looking for good resources contact the Nature Museum in Chicago or the Chicago Botanical Gardens. Both have wonderful butterfly resources and are in the same climate as you.
Reply:butterfly plants and zinnias! they also re-seed every year...
Reply:borrelia davidii , common trumpet vine , marigold , chives , clover , dame's rocket , dandelion , grape hyacinth , lilac , moss phlox , peony , privet , spicebush , virginia bluebell .
Reply:plant a couple of emos in there
website host
What do you do with a garden thats waterlogged?
i have puddles all over my garden when it rains and there is nowhere to drain it. i have planted stuff in the hope that it will help, not everything survives, and the garden is so muddy i cant use it, any suggestions, theres no entrance for a digger and its too big to dig up myself, what can i do?
What do you do with a garden thats waterlogged?
Ummm.... STOP WATERING IT....
Reply:we have the same problem-we've dug up trenches all around the garden to drain excess water.
Reply:Use what god gave you and go for a water garden. The dirt from digging the small garden pond could be piled up giving you a raised bed. Not the ideal, but a good way to minimize work and money. Best of luck.
Reply:You might try adding rice hulls to your garden. We have used them and it helps to soak up some of the water and they are very cheap.
Reply:Plant water loving plants like japanese iris, aroids, and ferns that can take a very soggy soil.
Reply:Your indication is that it is rather large, which is unfortunate, as my suggestion was going to be raising the bed up with amended and enriched fill dirt. We've been getting quite a bit of rain here lately (South East Texas) and I'm seeing that my newer flower beds are too low, and retaining water which will soon kill the plants I have in there. But since these beds are not too large to dig up and fill in and replant, I'll do that. I usually go for sunken beds in the vegetable garden since it gets so hot here in the South, and I want the water to soak in rather than run off.
Now you might also try just making drainage ditches (small but effective) till the water problem resolves, using the dirt you dig out of the ditch area to raise up the existing bed....or consider planting boggy plants which would thrive in the wetter conditions.
Reply:One solution might be to install a french drain. This is a piece of perforated pipe buried along where the drainage problems are occurring. Water soaks into the pipe and is carried away so the ground doesn't get so soggy. You would need to be able to dig a trench to install the pipe, and it does need to have a slight slope or the water won't drain. You also need to have the pipe come out somewhere further downhill so the water has somewhere to go. All this may be moot advice though, since you said there was nowhere to drain it to.
Another idea would be to build some raised beds. Make a frame from lumber (pressure treated or redwood so it won't rot) about a foot high and fill it with dirt. You could also put gravel in the bottom to help with drainage so your plants' roots won't get waterlogged. You'd still have puddles, but at least your veggies and flowers would be above the mud in good soil so you could grow things out there. Maybe put stepping stones or gravel between the raised beds, so you're not tramping through mud to get to them.
Hope one of these ideas helps :-)
What do you do with a garden thats waterlogged?
Ummm.... STOP WATERING IT....
Reply:we have the same problem-we've dug up trenches all around the garden to drain excess water.
Reply:Use what god gave you and go for a water garden. The dirt from digging the small garden pond could be piled up giving you a raised bed. Not the ideal, but a good way to minimize work and money. Best of luck.
Reply:You might try adding rice hulls to your garden. We have used them and it helps to soak up some of the water and they are very cheap.
Reply:Plant water loving plants like japanese iris, aroids, and ferns that can take a very soggy soil.
Reply:Your indication is that it is rather large, which is unfortunate, as my suggestion was going to be raising the bed up with amended and enriched fill dirt. We've been getting quite a bit of rain here lately (South East Texas) and I'm seeing that my newer flower beds are too low, and retaining water which will soon kill the plants I have in there. But since these beds are not too large to dig up and fill in and replant, I'll do that. I usually go for sunken beds in the vegetable garden since it gets so hot here in the South, and I want the water to soak in rather than run off.
Now you might also try just making drainage ditches (small but effective) till the water problem resolves, using the dirt you dig out of the ditch area to raise up the existing bed....or consider planting boggy plants which would thrive in the wetter conditions.
Reply:One solution might be to install a french drain. This is a piece of perforated pipe buried along where the drainage problems are occurring. Water soaks into the pipe and is carried away so the ground doesn't get so soggy. You would need to be able to dig a trench to install the pipe, and it does need to have a slight slope or the water won't drain. You also need to have the pipe come out somewhere further downhill so the water has somewhere to go. All this may be moot advice though, since you said there was nowhere to drain it to.
Another idea would be to build some raised beds. Make a frame from lumber (pressure treated or redwood so it won't rot) about a foot high and fill it with dirt. You could also put gravel in the bottom to help with drainage so your plants' roots won't get waterlogged. You'd still have puddles, but at least your veggies and flowers would be above the mud in good soil so you could grow things out there. Maybe put stepping stones or gravel between the raised beds, so you're not tramping through mud to get to them.
Hope one of these ideas helps :-)
How can i clear up the water on my decorative garden ponds?
I just built 2 outdoor decorative garden ponds and they will not clear up. what should i do other than buy a 600$ filter and pump?
How can i clear up the water on my decorative garden ponds?
First of all clean any large clumps of algae. then there are several routes you can go. Micro-lift is a very good product and safe for fish and plants. Also, barley bales work great as a natural way to go. Also, you can get catfish and snails to help cut back on the sludge. Also, a shades pond is always cleaner than a sunny one. If you have no shade and cannot provide any buy some lily plants to help shade the pond.
Reply:First, I would suggest that you go to a local nursery and ask about this... take some pictures of your ponds along, and perhaps a sample.
If the problem is weeds, then this product may help - AquaClear. You can find their website at - http://www.killlakeweeds.com/
(by the way, this a good site to look at... offers descriptions of different types of lake/pond weeds, etc, and guidelines on what works best on them)
As far as purchasing a pump and filter.... you could use a whole house filter, and any inexpensive pump... buy the parts right off the shelf, and put it together yourself... won't cost anywhere near $600.
Good Luck
Reply:Use Algea Fix. It works well and wont kill any fish.
http://futurepet.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.ex...
Reply:If you need to clean the ponds you should buy a pool net at wal-mart and it will work wonderfully.It did for me.
Reply:You could take a more natural approach and try to find some fish that help to clean it out. The website below has some ideas for dif. types of fish.
Reply:see if there are some kind of tablets that will clear the water.
How can i clear up the water on my decorative garden ponds?
First of all clean any large clumps of algae. then there are several routes you can go. Micro-lift is a very good product and safe for fish and plants. Also, barley bales work great as a natural way to go. Also, you can get catfish and snails to help cut back on the sludge. Also, a shades pond is always cleaner than a sunny one. If you have no shade and cannot provide any buy some lily plants to help shade the pond.
Reply:First, I would suggest that you go to a local nursery and ask about this... take some pictures of your ponds along, and perhaps a sample.
If the problem is weeds, then this product may help - AquaClear. You can find their website at - http://www.killlakeweeds.com/
(by the way, this a good site to look at... offers descriptions of different types of lake/pond weeds, etc, and guidelines on what works best on them)
As far as purchasing a pump and filter.... you could use a whole house filter, and any inexpensive pump... buy the parts right off the shelf, and put it together yourself... won't cost anywhere near $600.
Good Luck
Reply:Use Algea Fix. It works well and wont kill any fish.
http://futurepet.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.ex...
Reply:If you need to clean the ponds you should buy a pool net at wal-mart and it will work wonderfully.It did for me.
Reply:You could take a more natural approach and try to find some fish that help to clean it out. The website below has some ideas for dif. types of fish.
Reply:see if there are some kind of tablets that will clear the water.
I would like to give my garden a makeover this summer?
I am thinking about trying a circular lawn, would this look better in my small front garden, or the larger garden at the back of the house?
I would like to give my garden a makeover this summer?
Hey man
Personally I think its a great idea but you have to consider a few things before you jump into uktv garden mode. A= is the largest plot the better option. B= do you enjoy having freinds round for bar-b-qs in the summer. and C=do you have young kids. OH AND D= do you know what your doing around the perimmeter of your circle.
Good luck anyway.
Reply:Circular lawn is hard to mow unless there is nothing planted in it like small shrubs etc.......... what are the shapes of your windows, or the outside of your house: what kinds of shapes does your house portray? You need to look at your whole house as a whole and figure out what shapes pop out at you... then go with that.
Reply:larger garden in the back of the house =]
I would like to give my garden a makeover this summer?
Hey man
Personally I think its a great idea but you have to consider a few things before you jump into uktv garden mode. A= is the largest plot the better option. B= do you enjoy having freinds round for bar-b-qs in the summer. and C=do you have young kids. OH AND D= do you know what your doing around the perimmeter of your circle.
Good luck anyway.
Reply:Circular lawn is hard to mow unless there is nothing planted in it like small shrubs etc.......... what are the shapes of your windows, or the outside of your house: what kinds of shapes does your house portray? You need to look at your whole house as a whole and figure out what shapes pop out at you... then go with that.
Reply:larger garden in the back of the house =]
How can i train my dog to come in from garden when called?
My female shihtzu puppy (7months), has been causing a nuisence recently and not coming in from the garden when called, she runs away and when left she chews up the grass and digs holes. Its causing a real problem as today it took 2hours, and even then we had to make her go into the shed with her following a laserpen, and then take her indoors.
Any help would be appreciated.
How can i train my dog to come in from garden when called?
You can train your puppy to come to you. Put her on a leash and lean slightly down with a treat in your hand. Let her know you have the treat. Now that you have her attention, in the high pitched voice everyone uses to talk to their babies, say her name once and then repeat "Come" over and over as you move backwards away from her. Once she is at the desired place, reward her with the treat and tell her, "Good Girl!" Practice this at least 20 minutes a day, every day. Eventually she will come to you without you having to lure her with a treat. If you decide to do "clicker" training as others have suggested, enroll in training classes first. There is more to it than just clicking.
Reply:Dog training classes are a very good idea. It sounds like you need them I don;t get the bit about the laser pen. Isn't that abusive?
Reply:Treats treats and more treats. Try chicken or ham dogs love it, well my dog does. Ihave a begal and she constantly digs the garden and im forever filling in the holes. Dogs will dig because of boredom i think, well thats what im putting it down to. You need to show your dog who is the boss because they will take advantage of you!
Reply:titbits in a bag that rustles
Reply:dog training secret .free informations here it help you hope http://www.freewebs.com/lovepet
Reply:Treats, treats, treats!!
I call mine and give them a treat and lots of praise, They will do anything for food!
Reply:I have a 9 month old shih tzu boy and he is exactly the same! Will not come in for a treat or anything. I call him and he pretends that he doesn't hear me!! I have been to obedience training, hes great as "sit" "stay" "leave" etc but hates the word "Come" or "In" haha. I will have to dig out the clicker and see if that works, he responded to that well during training so that's our best bet I think.
Reply:Get a clicker. All I do is click and he comes running for his treat!
You can never "false" click or it won't work all the time.
Reply:Make sure you make a lot of noise. Wave your arms about and make weird noises so that she thinks that you're interesting, and maybe something's going on that she shoudl know about. Have a treat ready and give her lots of praise if she comes in.
Failing this, buy an elastic lead and put her on it. Then, have her on it in the garden, and call her name. If she doesn't respond, reel her in gently using the lead, and praise her lots. Eventually she'll get the hang of it.
You could also try training classes. These are good for young dogs ad help work on obedience.
I hope one of these methods work; I have a young Labrador and went through exactly the same thing
Good luck!
PS The laser pens are hilarious aren't they!
Reply:if she will not come when called do not call her if you can not make her come because she is learning a bad habit. yes please get her in to a obedience class as soon as you can.. if you are going to be outside with her tie a long piece small rope or twine to her collar. so you can step on it and make her come.
Reply:have a treat waiting on her
Reply:Use treats.
Take a box and show her that you are taking something from it, rattle the box so she associates the noise with treats, tantalise her so she knows what you ave in your hand then throw one near her.
When she's eaten that she will realise there are more waiting for her in side.
When she eventually does come in give her a treat and lots of praise.
Over time lose the treats but keep up the praise.
Use the box shaking method, this works with my dog.
Reply:Well, best thing to do it attend a beginners obidence class. Otherwise, this is what I was taught to give a certain positive response when the dog is called. Its called jackpot rewarding. You have to show the dog that now matter what is going on outside, when they here the command to go to you, it will be more rewarding. Have one treat that is reserved for that command (preferrably something that can easily be brokend down into smaller pieces...dog associate number to reward and not size of treat). When the dog follows the command give it 4-5 treats. Practice this inside in a control enviorment.
Reply:I have the same issue my two dogs they love it outside and never want to come in..Treats work most of the time but sometimes they can still be very stubborn. So since they love the Car and hate it when we leave or is wanting to greet the person at the door. I just yell out going in the car or I ring the door bell. Or just rattle the keys and in they come running. I know its kinda mean because they are all excited then to go ..but eh it works and they get over it pretty fast.. Funny how they have not gotten use to this in two years.. Give it a try with their favourite thing..may work.
Reply:as other people have said give the dog treats but make it a small cube of cheese,
give it a little often an it will get a taste for it and make sure u give it each time u get her to return no matter how long it takes for her to return, eventually she will get the message set in her head that when you call her she is going to get a treat,
i found cheese or rather the scent of cheese set's something off in any dog,
after a time you wont need the treat it will be stamped in her mind. best of luck, john in limerick.
Reply:big problem′s yes,? well I think you have to remember that dog′s when they here us speak they only here 2 syllables at a time . so when you call her it has to be with as less word′s as possible , and you said we, just one person giving the command. It should be heel , come, sit , that sort of thing . also she is a young dog %26amp; like′s to play . she need′s lot′s of exersice , also when your dog has been good you should alway′s reward her with a small dog biscuit, show her that you are happy with her. she will soon learn that by doing what she is told will get her a prize . Of course not all the time other wise she will get to fat . dog′s are like children , they push to see how far they can go , and don′t run after her , just say come then walk away , when she see′s no one is paying any attention to her she will come by herself . Hope I have helped a little
Reply:Teach her that when she comes to you she will get something nice and then she will come to you every time you call her.
Reply:yeah along with kat...act like Pavlov, ring a bell, and train your dog to come in...start by rewarding her with a treat or toy when she comes in, and repeat by ringing the bell and rewarding her with a treat..she'll soon know it'll be time to come in...Dogs like treats and will drop what their doing(unless they're in an intense rabbit/squirrel chase) for something good. You don't have to use a bell, by the way lol...my dog comes running when she hears the sound of her bowl or something familiar that symbolizes food.
Reply:try calling her be fore you want her in or have a bone froe your dog
Reply:zap it with a stun gun till she gets the message
Reply:Give her half a slice of bacon whenever she comes to you from the back yard. Inside a week she'll be at your door as soon as you open it.
Reply:This link explains how to train your dog to come reliably when called:
Training a Steadfast Recall
http://www.clickertraining.com/node/309
Reply:You need some puppy obedience classes. If that's not an option, get the book, "Puppies for Dummies". It's a great reference for puppy training. One method for teaching "come" is to put her on a really long leash, 20' or more, a clothes line will work too. When she's far away, say "come" and use the line to pull her towards you, when she gets to you, give her a yummy treat like cheese and pet and praise her like it's the greatest thing in the world. You'll need to do this over and over and over again until she comes to you on her own 100% of the time and she's weaned off the treats. Don't give the "come" command unless you can enforce it, in other words, don't say "come" then chase her all over the garden. This tells her she doesn't really have to do it (trust me, I learned this the hard way). Also, keep in mind, when you say "come" and she does it, she should never, ever be punished. Coming to you should always be a positive experience, if it's not, she will be unreliable. And this is such an important command, it could save her life some day if you need to call her away from a dangerous situation like a busy road.
Reply:what it needs is a dam good thrashing when being disobedient it will learn eventually
Reply:I have trained dogs in the past for drugs,lost persons, obedIEnce,and attack. Your only solution is either have your dog professionally train for basic commands ie; sit,stay,heel,come. If you cannot afford to send dog for this,then I suggest going to library and pick out a basic training book for dogs. If you can read , you can train. It is very simple and once you do this not only will you enjoy your pet more but he will enjoy you as much. The key to all of it is repetitiveness. It really is that easy. You might want to place black pepper in the areas the she is doing damage to grass.Shake a good amount on area. Trust me she will not like it.!Good Luck
payday loan
Any help would be appreciated.
How can i train my dog to come in from garden when called?
You can train your puppy to come to you. Put her on a leash and lean slightly down with a treat in your hand. Let her know you have the treat. Now that you have her attention, in the high pitched voice everyone uses to talk to their babies, say her name once and then repeat "Come" over and over as you move backwards away from her. Once she is at the desired place, reward her with the treat and tell her, "Good Girl!" Practice this at least 20 minutes a day, every day. Eventually she will come to you without you having to lure her with a treat. If you decide to do "clicker" training as others have suggested, enroll in training classes first. There is more to it than just clicking.
Reply:Dog training classes are a very good idea. It sounds like you need them I don;t get the bit about the laser pen. Isn't that abusive?
Reply:Treats treats and more treats. Try chicken or ham dogs love it, well my dog does. Ihave a begal and she constantly digs the garden and im forever filling in the holes. Dogs will dig because of boredom i think, well thats what im putting it down to. You need to show your dog who is the boss because they will take advantage of you!
Reply:titbits in a bag that rustles
Reply:dog training secret .free informations here it help you hope http://www.freewebs.com/lovepet
Reply:Treats, treats, treats!!
I call mine and give them a treat and lots of praise, They will do anything for food!
Reply:I have a 9 month old shih tzu boy and he is exactly the same! Will not come in for a treat or anything. I call him and he pretends that he doesn't hear me!! I have been to obedience training, hes great as "sit" "stay" "leave" etc but hates the word "Come" or "In" haha. I will have to dig out the clicker and see if that works, he responded to that well during training so that's our best bet I think.
Reply:Get a clicker. All I do is click and he comes running for his treat!
You can never "false" click or it won't work all the time.
Reply:Make sure you make a lot of noise. Wave your arms about and make weird noises so that she thinks that you're interesting, and maybe something's going on that she shoudl know about. Have a treat ready and give her lots of praise if she comes in.
Failing this, buy an elastic lead and put her on it. Then, have her on it in the garden, and call her name. If she doesn't respond, reel her in gently using the lead, and praise her lots. Eventually she'll get the hang of it.
You could also try training classes. These are good for young dogs ad help work on obedience.
I hope one of these methods work; I have a young Labrador and went through exactly the same thing
Good luck!
PS The laser pens are hilarious aren't they!
Reply:if she will not come when called do not call her if you can not make her come because she is learning a bad habit. yes please get her in to a obedience class as soon as you can.. if you are going to be outside with her tie a long piece small rope or twine to her collar. so you can step on it and make her come.
Reply:have a treat waiting on her
Reply:Use treats.
Take a box and show her that you are taking something from it, rattle the box so she associates the noise with treats, tantalise her so she knows what you ave in your hand then throw one near her.
When she's eaten that she will realise there are more waiting for her in side.
When she eventually does come in give her a treat and lots of praise.
Over time lose the treats but keep up the praise.
Use the box shaking method, this works with my dog.
Reply:Well, best thing to do it attend a beginners obidence class. Otherwise, this is what I was taught to give a certain positive response when the dog is called. Its called jackpot rewarding. You have to show the dog that now matter what is going on outside, when they here the command to go to you, it will be more rewarding. Have one treat that is reserved for that command (preferrably something that can easily be brokend down into smaller pieces...dog associate number to reward and not size of treat). When the dog follows the command give it 4-5 treats. Practice this inside in a control enviorment.
Reply:I have the same issue my two dogs they love it outside and never want to come in..Treats work most of the time but sometimes they can still be very stubborn. So since they love the Car and hate it when we leave or is wanting to greet the person at the door. I just yell out going in the car or I ring the door bell. Or just rattle the keys and in they come running. I know its kinda mean because they are all excited then to go ..but eh it works and they get over it pretty fast.. Funny how they have not gotten use to this in two years.. Give it a try with their favourite thing..may work.
Reply:as other people have said give the dog treats but make it a small cube of cheese,
give it a little often an it will get a taste for it and make sure u give it each time u get her to return no matter how long it takes for her to return, eventually she will get the message set in her head that when you call her she is going to get a treat,
i found cheese or rather the scent of cheese set's something off in any dog,
after a time you wont need the treat it will be stamped in her mind. best of luck, john in limerick.
Reply:big problem′s yes,? well I think you have to remember that dog′s when they here us speak they only here 2 syllables at a time . so when you call her it has to be with as less word′s as possible , and you said we, just one person giving the command. It should be heel , come, sit , that sort of thing . also she is a young dog %26amp; like′s to play . she need′s lot′s of exersice , also when your dog has been good you should alway′s reward her with a small dog biscuit, show her that you are happy with her. she will soon learn that by doing what she is told will get her a prize . Of course not all the time other wise she will get to fat . dog′s are like children , they push to see how far they can go , and don′t run after her , just say come then walk away , when she see′s no one is paying any attention to her she will come by herself . Hope I have helped a little
Reply:Teach her that when she comes to you she will get something nice and then she will come to you every time you call her.
Reply:yeah along with kat...act like Pavlov, ring a bell, and train your dog to come in...start by rewarding her with a treat or toy when she comes in, and repeat by ringing the bell and rewarding her with a treat..she'll soon know it'll be time to come in...Dogs like treats and will drop what their doing(unless they're in an intense rabbit/squirrel chase) for something good. You don't have to use a bell, by the way lol...my dog comes running when she hears the sound of her bowl or something familiar that symbolizes food.
Reply:try calling her be fore you want her in or have a bone froe your dog
Reply:zap it with a stun gun till she gets the message
Reply:Give her half a slice of bacon whenever she comes to you from the back yard. Inside a week she'll be at your door as soon as you open it.
Reply:This link explains how to train your dog to come reliably when called:
Training a Steadfast Recall
http://www.clickertraining.com/node/309
Reply:You need some puppy obedience classes. If that's not an option, get the book, "Puppies for Dummies". It's a great reference for puppy training. One method for teaching "come" is to put her on a really long leash, 20' or more, a clothes line will work too. When she's far away, say "come" and use the line to pull her towards you, when she gets to you, give her a yummy treat like cheese and pet and praise her like it's the greatest thing in the world. You'll need to do this over and over and over again until she comes to you on her own 100% of the time and she's weaned off the treats. Don't give the "come" command unless you can enforce it, in other words, don't say "come" then chase her all over the garden. This tells her she doesn't really have to do it (trust me, I learned this the hard way). Also, keep in mind, when you say "come" and she does it, she should never, ever be punished. Coming to you should always be a positive experience, if it's not, she will be unreliable. And this is such an important command, it could save her life some day if you need to call her away from a dangerous situation like a busy road.
Reply:what it needs is a dam good thrashing when being disobedient it will learn eventually
Reply:I have trained dogs in the past for drugs,lost persons, obedIEnce,and attack. Your only solution is either have your dog professionally train for basic commands ie; sit,stay,heel,come. If you cannot afford to send dog for this,then I suggest going to library and pick out a basic training book for dogs. If you can read , you can train. It is very simple and once you do this not only will you enjoy your pet more but he will enjoy you as much. The key to all of it is repetitiveness. It really is that easy. You might want to place black pepper in the areas the she is doing damage to grass.Shake a good amount on area. Trust me she will not like it.!Good Luck
payday loan
How do you stop a cat from messing in your garden?
I have a 2yr old son and am due again in 3weeks and mt neighbours cat keeps doing its buisness in my garden. What can i try to stop it?
How do you stop a cat from messing in your garden?
Spots can be 'filled' by putting prunings of roses or other spiky plants (cut into small pieces about 3" long) into or on the soil. Spread them over the soil to protect new sowings and plantings. Another thing you can try is Pine Straw mulch. I know I wouldn't walk on them barefooted.
Hope this helps ;-)
Reply:I've been wondering the same thing . . and contrary to Loris' answer, it is not fertilizer . . it's acidic and deadly to plants. I'm this side of getting me a pellet gun and shooting anythign I see in there.
Reply:Eliminate the cause.
Reply:do you have a cat? if so take something it lays on like a rug and put it near your garden. that might keep it away
Reply:Well, if he is not digging everything up, just consider it as he is fertilizing for free...
Reply:I had a neighbor's cat using my container plants as its litter box. I found a product called Repell for $1.99 that I sprayed in a perimeter around my yard that kept kitty from crossing it. You can find it at pet stores and at the discounters in the pet aisle. Everything else I tried, dried mustard, cayenne pepper, %26amp; red pepper flakes, etc. didn't deter him, but after a couple of applications of Repell, he stopped coming around my yard.
How do you stop a cat from messing in your garden?
Spots can be 'filled' by putting prunings of roses or other spiky plants (cut into small pieces about 3" long) into or on the soil. Spread them over the soil to protect new sowings and plantings. Another thing you can try is Pine Straw mulch. I know I wouldn't walk on them barefooted.
Hope this helps ;-)
Reply:I've been wondering the same thing . . and contrary to Loris' answer, it is not fertilizer . . it's acidic and deadly to plants. I'm this side of getting me a pellet gun and shooting anythign I see in there.
Reply:Eliminate the cause.
Reply:do you have a cat? if so take something it lays on like a rug and put it near your garden. that might keep it away
Reply:Well, if he is not digging everything up, just consider it as he is fertilizing for free...
Reply:I had a neighbor's cat using my container plants as its litter box. I found a product called Repell for $1.99 that I sprayed in a perimeter around my yard that kept kitty from crossing it. You can find it at pet stores and at the discounters in the pet aisle. Everything else I tried, dried mustard, cayenne pepper, %26amp; red pepper flakes, etc. didn't deter him, but after a couple of applications of Repell, he stopped coming around my yard.
I am in zone 13. What fruits, veggies, and other plants can I grow in a winter garden?
I live in Southern California zone 13 and have to grow a garden (preferably with primarily edible plants). It doesn't frost much and tempuratures when its really cold are rarely below 40s.
I am in zone 13. What fruits, veggies, and other plants can I grow in a winter garden?
There is no zone 13, but you may be zone 10. You can plant cool weather plants like:
Beets
Broccoli
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Chard
Chinese Cabbage
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Mustard
Onions
Radishes
Rutabagas
Spinach
Turnips
Just to name a few.
Here is a site about fall and wintergardening in southern Cali.
http://www.humeseeds.com/falwint.htm
Good Luck
Reply:Southern Calif.
October veggies and flowers.
Click this link:
http://www.digitalseed.com/gardener/guid...
I am in zone 13. What fruits, veggies, and other plants can I grow in a winter garden?
There is no zone 13, but you may be zone 10. You can plant cool weather plants like:
Beets
Broccoli
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Chard
Chinese Cabbage
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Mustard
Onions
Radishes
Rutabagas
Spinach
Turnips
Just to name a few.
Here is a site about fall and wintergardening in southern Cali.
http://www.humeseeds.com/falwint.htm
Good Luck
Reply:Southern Calif.
October veggies and flowers.
Click this link:
http://www.digitalseed.com/gardener/guid...
What are these tall patches of grass growing in my garden?
I have these small, tall, dark green patches of grass invading my garden and starting to spread to my lawn. When I pull enough up, they have a small bulb at the end. How do I get rid of them without killing my perenniels?
What are these tall patches of grass growing in my garden?
Could it be Nut-Grass ?
www.aces.edu
Please check out the this website for a photo.
If you are trying to remove the weeds by hand you will have to dig below the nut that is attached to the roots in order to ever get a head of this weed.The roots are very long!
This website has info. about chemicals that you can use.
GOOD LUCK!
I have tried MANY times to add the complete website ,it will not allow me to???
Try going to Google (Images) type in Nut Grass then www.aces.edu
Reply:Take a sponge or sock something absorbent.
Tie it to a stick
Dip it in some roundup
Rub the wet cloth on the weeds be careful to not touch grass.
The weeds will turn brown and die in a couple of weeks. You can then seed the area or let the grass regrow itself into the bare spot.
What are these tall patches of grass growing in my garden?
Could it be Nut-Grass ?
www.aces.edu
Please check out the this website for a photo.
If you are trying to remove the weeds by hand you will have to dig below the nut that is attached to the roots in order to ever get a head of this weed.The roots are very long!
This website has info. about chemicals that you can use.
GOOD LUCK!
I have tried MANY times to add the complete website ,it will not allow me to???
Try going to Google (Images) type in Nut Grass then www.aces.edu
Reply:Take a sponge or sock something absorbent.
Tie it to a stick
Dip it in some roundup
Rub the wet cloth on the weeds be careful to not touch grass.
The weeds will turn brown and die in a couple of weeks. You can then seed the area or let the grass regrow itself into the bare spot.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)